Umbria promotes itself as ‘Italy’s Green Heart’, and it’s true that the colour green dominates the landscape — from the glistening silver-green olive groves above Lake Trasimeno to the dark green holm oak woods edging the Valle Umbra and Valnerina and up to the oak forests, mountain pastures and high grassy plateaus of the Monti Sibillini. This picture is not only true for Umbria, but also for the lesser-known neighbouring region of the Marches. The main focal points of this guide are the two most beautiful areas of the Apennines in Umbria and the Marches — the idyllic, deeply-etched valley of Valnerina in Umbria and the legendary Monti Sibillini which rise to almost 2500m and lie mainly in the Marches. Naturally there is a wealth of art and architecture to be seen en route, whether you travel by car or on foot. Best months for walking: September to June Where to stay: if you are going to rely on public transport to reach the walks, you will need to stay in a city. If you will have a car, you will have much more scope and you can, for example, opt to rent a villa in the countryside or a room or apartment on a farm, which will often be located in delightful scenery. 8 car tours 37 main walks with many shorter and longer variations 136 pages + touring map