Afghanistan was once known for its dramatic mountains and unparalleled hospitality, but sadly its image has become more closely associated with war and terrorism in recent years. But with the right information at hand, this incredible country still offers both natural and manmade delights. * Advice from resident expats on working and safety in Afghanistan * Specialist contributors write on trekking in the Wakhan and Afghan Pamir * Lonely Planet founder Tony Wheeler reflects on Afghanistan over the decades * Trustworthy accommodation recommendations