Lying in the shadow of Europe's second-largest active volcano, overlooking the Bay of Naples, this fascinating, UNESCO-protected city offers more than corruption, crime and Camorra scandals. Visit the San Carlo opera house, where Rossini and Donizetti triumphed, sip a caffe where Oscar Wilde and Enrique Caruso used to lounge, eat a margarita pizza at the restaurant that created it and, with the help of this guide, find the best hotels, the coolest spas and some of the finest food in the whole of Italy.