While the coast calls to sun seekers and clubbers, inland is a haven of traditional villages, medieval castles and impressive ancient sites. Connect with the real Cyprus with this definitive guide. * Out & about - partying in Agia Napa or hiking in the Troodos, get the local lowdown with our informed coverage * Get under the skin - authoritative background information puts Cyprus' cultural and political sensitivities in context * Tasty Tavernas- plump olives, fresh meze and char-grilled souvlaki: discerning recommendations reveal the island's best * Find you way - more than 30 grid-referenced maps and up-to-date information on travelling across the Green Line